The compressor is hot to the touch, but it is not cooling properly.

It is first necessary to determine whether the compressor is off on the thermal limit (mounted inside the compressor connection box) because of ambient temperature conditions or if it has an internal restriction or another system problem. The thermal limit is sensitive to both current and temperature overload. For instance, a restriction in the freon system may cause high compressor current and cause the limit to break the circuit. (See Freon System Failures in Manual 7: Refrigerators and Freezers.)

1. Spin the condenser cooling fan blade, it should spin freely and slowly drift to a stop. Remove any obstruction such as a dead mouse or loose insulation and give the compressor several hours to reach proper operating temperatures. Using a fan to blow air over the area will speed up the process.

   The surest way to test a condenser fan motor is to connect a test cord directly to the motor itself; this is also a fast way to cool off a hot compressor. Forget oiling a condenser fan motor, replace it. They are universal and any two-watt clockwise condenser fan motor will fit fine.

   Note: On many brands, the cooling fan operates only when power is supplied to the compressor. SubZero is an exception: the fan runs 24 hours a day. On older GE refrigerators, the cooling fan is wired in after the compressor overload. In other words the cooling fan shuts down whenever the compressor gets too hot. (This illogical logic has been changed on newer models.)

2. The condenser is the group of black coils nestled underneath the refrigerator. Typically, cool room air is sucked into the right-front side, across the condenser and compressor, and warm air blows out the left-side. Just ask the cat, he only sleeps on the left-side. Is the condenser clogged with lint and animal hair?

   Yes

   No

Lights On
No Cooling at All
Troubleshooting Refrigerators
Diagnostic System