All is deathly quiet when the icemaker cycles (or is tested with a line cord directly on the valve). If there is no valve noise there are three possible failures:

1. The valve coil itself (see Test Procedures in Manual 9: Icemakers.)
2. The switch circuit or associated gears within the icemaker.
3. The wiring between the icemaker and the valve is faulty (rare problem).

There is a fast, professional method of determining if the valve is OK or if the problem is inside the icemaker. This method eliminates moving the refrigerator. Use a homemade test cord made from an old icemaker and plug it into the icemaker connection. Making test cords is described in Manual 9: Icemakers.

Testing without a test cord

Since it may be impractical to make up a reusable test cord, there is another alternative. Pull out the refrigerator and follow the test procedures described in Condition 1-A. If the valve doesn't function on direct test replace the valve (Condition 1-B-1).

If the valve works fine with direct wiring, the fault is either Condition 1-B-2 or 3. Visually inspect the solenoid wiring and then cycle the icemaker with a voltmeter attached to the solenoid terminals. If no power appears during the fill segment of the ejection cycle replace the icemaker. In a few cases the icemaker may be repaired; see Manual 9: Icemakers.

No Water in Mold
Troubleshooting Icemakers
Diagnostic System