Theory of Operation

Once the operator selects "Clean" on the oven thermostat and on the oven selector, the logic circuitry of the oven is significantly altered.

Switching to self-clean drops the bake and broil element voltage from 220 VAC to 110 VAC. The heating is long and slow. The elements stay on a much greater percentage of time during the self-cleaning cycle instead of cycling on and off as they do on regular cooking.

Most self-cleaners have a locking latch handle that must be thrown prior to the self-cleaning cycle. A few, such as Amana, use a small motor to activate a hook that grabs the door and holds it shut during the cleaning cycle.

There is a safety thermostat built into the latching mechanism. Once that temperature reaches 550°F, it disables the latch mechanism. It is then impossible to open the oven door and get burned.

The oven clock is used to start and stop the timing of the oven cleaning cycle. Setting the clock can be confusing for customers and mechanics. Oven clock knobs often push in and pop out to turn the oven on and off.

Diagnosis of Self-Cleaning Ovens

There are three failure modes:

1. Oven will bake normally, but not self-clean.
2. Oven will not bake or self-clean.
3. Oven is locked and can't be opened.